The Good, The Bad, & The Amazing

Now that I have had a little while to reflect on my visit in Israel, I wanted to share my overall thoughts on my time there. This won’t be some handy dandy travelers guide, but rather things that stuck out the most in my mind. I can only talk about where I went: Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, Jericho, Bethlehem, and the Dead Sea. I am not an area expert; only a traveler from the US.

The Good

Security: I’m starting with security because it was the topic I heard voiced the most from all of my friends and family outside of Israel. I never felt un-safe during my trip in Israel. Nobody tried to kidnap me. Nobody harassed me (even when I wore my American flag hat EVERYWHERE). There were two rocket attacks in areas where I was staying, but thanks to the Iron Dome these had little to no effect. There are security forces at most major tourist locations, and the roads are well patrolled (Also, no matter if it was police or military, I never felt threatened. That’s an important distinction because there are places in the world where I worry). Just use common sense and remember bad stuff happens in every city across the world, so keep that in mind when you are making comparisons.

Infrastructure: The infrastructure here is on par with any other Western country. What that means: the urban cities have a lot and the rural cities have less.

Jerusalem and Tel Aviv both have: good roads, many transportation options (taxi, bus, light rail, train, bike/jogging trails, etc), universities, easy to navigate signs (Street signs/places of interest/maps are plentiful and multi-lingual), dinning options (large chain restaurants, mom & pop places, street vendors), lodging options (hotels, hostels, homes for rent), police/fire/ambulance, upscale neighborhoods, poor neighborhoods, public restrooms, many parks, and many entertainment options.

Jericho and Bethlehem (Considered part of the Palestinian territories) have much less than Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. The majority of the main roads are alright, but with potholes. The smaller roads are in need of repair or non-existent. Taxis or private vehicles were the only transportation options I observed. I was unaware of any universities. Street signs were mostly in Arabic, places of interest were not well marked (if at all), and there were no maps that I observed. Dining options were only mom & pop places and street vendors. There were only a handful of hotels visible. Police were visible only at tourist locations and in much smaller numbers than their counterparts in Israel. I did not see any fire or ambulance vehicles. There were a small number of nice homes, but no upscale neighborhoods as a whole; the majority were middle class to poor. There weren’t many public restrooms. There was traditional entertainment available (dance halls), but nothing else that I observed.

The Dead Sea is a resort town. Very safe. Not a whole lot to do outside of the resorts or spas.

Government: Regardless of whether you agree with the laws and positions that the government of Israel takes, their ability to come together and address issues in a timely manner is very efficient. Their governing body, The Knesset,  is  diverse: Made up of all the major religions of Israel (Jews, Christians, Muslims, and Drzue), 23%  are women (Higher percentage than the US (18%) and the UK (22%)), and 41% were freshman in 2013 (Keep in mind the Tea Party only resulted in the US Congress having 16% freshman in 2010.

The Israeli government is pro-business, credited with creating one of the best startup ecosystems in the world (Tel Aviv), second only to Silicon Valley.

They are responsive to the people. Tours are given at the Knesset. Activity is available online, in person, and on television.

The Bad

Drivers: Oh my goodness. When I took the hour long taxi ride from the airport to my apartment, I thought I was having a nightmare about being in that game Crazy Taxi. Then I quickly realized it wasn’t just the taxis. The cars, motorcycles, BUSES. Everyone was in a hurry, everyone liked to take shortcuts at high rates of speed, and everyone loved honking their horns. Hitting a car parked in front or behind you wasn’t a big deal.  Drivers did obey traffic lights (most of the time), but if they were driving motorcycles they basically did whatever they wanted. I’m very thankful I didn’t drive any of the time I was there.

Traveling Alone, As a Military Age male: I completely understand security, and I am not upset about all the extra scrutiny I received while going into important places, because Israel was at war and they have many enemies that do try to destroy them on a frequent basis. That being said, I don’t think anyone enjoys spending more than two hours explaining about yourself (not just travel plans, put private information) to a complete stranger at a airport, no matter what the justification. Add to that, you will have to re-explain to their supervisor, show emails/facebook posts/blog posts to corroborate your answers, and have yourself/luggage checked very thoroughly (which resulted in something very valuable to me disappearing). I know this process wasn’t their fault, I know that I fit a profile. I just wasn’t a fan.

Street Vendors: Street vendors being pushy isn’t just an issue here, but there were certain times where it got pretty bad. People approaching you as friendly, then yelling and calling you names if you don’t buy from them. People pounding on your vehicle if you don’t buy from them. I’m not going to describe it much more, because it wasn’t a problem in most places. I will just say it’s always better to ignore them if you don’t want what they’re selling.

The Amazing

The People: The majority of people that you will come into contact with in Israel are AMAZING. They will always help if you are in need. I can’t tell you how many times people went out of their way to help me. Business owners, police, regular people on the street; they were all very friendly. My neighbor (and realtor) Sharon Friedman invited me to dinner with her family twice and took care of everything I could possibly need.

Also, the thing I most admired about the Israeli people is that they refused to be terrorized. If an attack happened somewhere, that place would be filled with people AS SOON AS IT WAS SAFE, sometimes just an hour later.

The Places: Most visitors come to Israel for religious reasons, but there really is something for everybody. The history and architecture is so diverse, and beautiful. There are activities ranging from sky diving or romping out in the desert to floating in the Dead Sea or being pampered in one of the many spas throughout the country. You can find a quiet place to reflect (which I did quite a bit) or go take part in the very active nightlife.

Israel is also a major hub for business all around the world, so you can close that big deal or find a new startup to connect with.

Of course, the most famous reason is the places of religious significance. Holy places for Muslims, Christians, and Jews are located all over the country. I suggest you check them out, even if you aren’t religious.

The Weather: I was so surprised how beautiful it was in July and August. I’m from Arizona in the US, which is very hot, almost unbearable during the day if you are outside for long periods of time.  You would expect that Israel would be as well. WRONG. On the average, I would spend between 4 and 5 hours walking everyday, but it was BEAUTIFUL. A light breeze was always present, which made my treks very enjoyable. I spent a whole day at the Dead Sea and barely got a little red on my cheeks and neck, but not burned (which is kinda rare for me).

Conclusion: If you get the chance, go to Israel. 

You are awesome!

-Mike

Comments? Questions? Suggestions? Please leave them down below. 

When wars break out in foreign countries, I usually like to do some research and form my own opinion. Unless it is a war where I am personally invested, I don’t publicly voice my opinion, but rather share it with my friends and family if it comes up. I do this because I am not a country specific expert in a lot of countries, and there are always two sides to a story. In the world of asymmetrical, or 4th Generation, warfare it becomes even more difficult to take sides because it is characterized by a nation state not having complete control over combat forces ( i.e. terrorist groups working within one or multiple countries, without necessarily working for those countries ).

There are just a few reasons that I will decide to go public with my opinion, and the top of that list is that an organization has actively tried to end my life. I understand that there is always a back story as to why these groups resort to the tactics that they do, but when you try to kill me and take credit for the attack, I no longer care.

In Iraq, it was Jaysh al-Mahdi. They said we were “occupiers”. They used religious “justification” to target civilians and carry out heinous acts. They had a lot of influence and power in Baghdad. When they actively tried to end my life, regardless of their “justifications”, I made my opinion very clear. I hope and pray for the destruction of Jaysh al-Mahdi, their supporters, and anyone who willingly sides with them. I do this not just for the freedom and safety of those who are oppressed by their group, but because it has become personal for me on the deepest level. That was 2006, and I still feel the same today.

Fast forward to 19 Aug 2014. Sirens blare in Jerusalem at approximately 22:45 as over 50 rockets are fired at Israel. One is intercepted by the Iron Dome over Jerusalem.

When I heard the sirens, and the following “boom”, I knew someone was actively trying to end my life. They may have not said “Hey, we’re aiming for Michael Ritchie, the American visiting Jerusalem”, but they didn’t need to. Once you pull that trigger, set that IED/VBIED, or launch that explosive ordinance towards me, I no longer care. I don’t care about your cause. I don’t care about how much suffering you have gone through in your lifetime. I don’t care about what change you are trying to bring about in the world. I just don’t. All I care about is doing every legal thing possible to bring about the destruction of your organization. Notice I said “legal”, which means regardless of how much I want your organization gone, I will always keep my morals.

In this case, Hamas has publicly claimed responsibility. So, for me, they are in the same category as Jaysh al-Mahdi. *Notice, I didn’t say “all people of the same religion as this group” or “all people in the same area as this group”; If I said that, I would be no better than them. I do not hate the members of Hamas as individual people, as I am called to love all people by my faith, but I sure as hell don’t like them.

So, where do I stand in the current conflict? I STAND AGAINST HAMAS, not for the litany of reasons gone over ad nauseam in the media, but for the most personal of reasons.

*** I want to digress for a minute and say this attack doesn’t change my timeline for leaving Israel. The most admirable thing I have noticed from my visit here is that these people refuse to be terrorized. As I am writing this, 12 hours after the attack: the airport is re-opened, the streets are busy, and people are going on with their daily lives. Unless my country (United States) or Israel says I have to leave, I choose to stay. I refuse to be terrorized.

You are awesome!

-Mike

Comments? Questions? Suggestions? Please leave them down below. 

Always Seeking More…

This last week has been has been a turbulent one for me in Jerusalem. My phone charger broke, which meant I had no way to communicate while out and about. That same day, my electricity went out while I was gone. I did not know this, and assumed that the still cold yogurt in my fridge would be fine. After days of being violently ill, I am finally back to 100%.  Feeling great! Then I wake up to an email saying my lodging in Tel Aviv has been cancelled. So, what does this have to do with the theme “always seeking more”? Let me attempt to explain.

In between my frequent trips to the bathroom, I spent a lot of time in bed reading. I came across an article about St Ignatius of Loyola, ancient Knight and founder of The Society of Jesus (better known as the Jesuits). St Ignatius did many great things, but I think the most wonderful of all was his focus on “Magis” (Latin for “More”). Before anyone starts quoting a Dan Brown novel about some secret plot of the Jesuits to take over the world, let’s take a closer look at this.

What he believed was simple: you should always being doing MORE to better yourself. Not just to be the best at any one thing, but to seek out betterment in ever aspect of your life. If you continually better yourself and examine how your choices affect others, you will be able to do more for the world, and serve God better… I know, I know. Still waiting for the correlation.

This is how I see it: When I was sick, I could have given up on my workout plan and justified taking a couple of days of rest; but I wanted MORE. When my phone charger broke, I could have just stopped communicating; but I wanted MORE. When my reservations got cancelled less than a week before I was supposed to go there, I could have got frustrated and just gave up; but I wanted MORE. I dug down and finished my workouts as planned, because it was bettering myself physically. I kept communicating with people who were giving me invaluable insight, because it was bettering myself mentally. When the plans changed for lodging, I didn’t get down on myself, because the new place I found is going to better my trip tenfold compared to the other place.

Ignatian Spirituality says that God is actively involved in the world and intimately involved with us in every moment and place. Regardless of religious affiliation, I think if you simply reflect on things and strive for MORE, any situation can be turned into a positive.

This is just my perspective on life.

You are awesome!

-Mike

Comments? Questions? Suggestions? Please leave them down below. 

The “Secret Garden”

I’m sure it’s not really called the secret garden, but that’s what I call this place. Located directly across from the Jaffa Gate of the Old City, neighboring the Montefiore Windmill, and right above the Artist Colony. Perfect for reflection or taking in all of the splendors of Jerusalem. If you ever find yourself in the city, I suggest you come and visit this hidden gem.

View of the Dead Sea

Shabbat Shalom everybody! When the words are said together, they convey the message “may your day of no work be peaceful”, and can I say it really has been very peaceful for me. Let me explain why.

This week I have traveled to Jericho, Bethlehem, and the Dead Sea.  I used Egged Tours to book these tours because: 1) this is WAY cheaper than the taxis, the guides have a lot of insight into the areas you are going, the mini bus is very comfortable, and the people who take the tours with you are an interesting bunch. In addition to how amazing each of these places were (order of importance for me: Bethlehem, the Dead Sea, Jericho), it also officially finishes my list of everything I wanted to see/do in Israel.

(In My Billy Mays Voice): BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE! 

A neighbor of mine invited me to their house for an Orthodox Jewish Shabbat dinner. This was a very pleasant surprise for me. The Shabbat (or Sabbath) begins on Friday at sunset and ends Saturday at night. During this time, when basically everything shuts down, it is a time to reflect, relax, and spend time with friends and family. Now, I’m a Catholic American that doesn’t have much experience or knowledge of Jewish traditions, so I can’t begin to explain all of the rules and beliefs of what the Shabbat entails…but I can describe the very lovely dinner I just had.

I arrived at the home around 8:30pm, and was introduced to everyone (husband, wife, son, daughter). These folks were from the US, so I instantly felt right at home when the conversation started. After getting to know everyone, the whole dinner was explained to me. There’s washing of the hands, prayer, singing, blessings, and other rituals were involved at different times. I basically followed along the best I could, except the parts in Hebrew, and there was no pressure on me to know everything (which is good, because I was lost in the sauce).

There was wine, soup, bread, and a spread of food that was amazing! Fish, salad, noodles, stuffed peppers, lasagna….ALL SO GOOD! In between the singing and prayers, a conversation took place that is reminiscant of so many family dinners I have participated in before. We talked about life, school, current events, travel, Grandma posting on Facebook; I really can’t stress how refreshing this all was.

I learned a lot about the traditions, ate some great food, and had wonderful company through it all. I’m not Jewish. I’m not Israeli. If I wasn’t invited, I would have never thought I would have this experience; but I am so very thankful for this wonderful night!

Moral of the story: When doors open for you, put a smile on and walk right through that door.

Don’t Let Fear Stop You 

View of the Old City from East Jerusalem

Fear can do strange things to people. It can make us paranoid, delusional, and worst of all it can close off our world.

When I first got to Jerusalem, all of the news reports talked about how unsafe East Jerusalem was. There were emails that I received cautioning Americans not to travel into East Jerusalem. There was an event where 10,000+ people participated in a so-called “Day of Rage” which resulted in police getting involved and people being killed and injured. With all of this being at the forefront of my mind, I weighted any travel into East Jerusalem very heavily when completing my risk analysis of places I wanted to visit (I know, nerd alert. But hey, I’m an American traveling alone in a country where I don’t look like most of the people and don’t speak the language). I didn’t want to travel into East Jerusalem at all; there’s just too many other places I could see with much less risk involved. That all changed when I met a group of Brits out at dinner in the Old City one night. I struck up a conversation with them, and it turned out they were working at a place called the Garden Tomb and invited me out there. Not knowing where exactly it was from their directions, I agreed to come visit them out there the next time they worked. WELLLLL. Turns out the Garden Tomb is in East Jerusalem.

I now had a decision to make: Should I be a man of my word, throw caution to the wind, and go visit them OR should I do the reasonable, prudent thing and just explain to them why I wouldn’t come visit them? I was never mistaken for a MENSA candidate, so of course I went to visit. When you enter East Jerusalem, it’s very noticeably different from the rest of Jerusalem in that there are many more people wearing traditional Muslim attire and it is a very different environment. Different how you ask? Signs that were usually in Hebrew/Arabic/English were now only in Arabic. The types of food being sold in the street were different. There were burn marks in the street. And most notably: the Israeli police/Army seemed to have an unusually large force situated right across the street from the entrance to East Jerusalem. I made it safely to the Garden Tomb, had a wonderful time taking the tour, and catching up with one Gerry (one of the Brits I met earlier).

When I made it back to my apartment that night, I reflected on the whole situation. I’m alive, how can this be?…Okay, maybe I wasn’t that melodramatic about it, but I was surprised how easily I transitioned in and out of there. It was settled, I was going to explore the rest of East Jerusalem, and I am so happy that I did. I got to see so many amazing places, took that wonderful picture of the Old City (Above), and met a tour guide that actually used to live in my home state of Arizona (he insisted on showing me his ID to prove it).

Moral of the story is: don’t limit your options because of fear. I didn’t fly thousands of miles into a country at war just to limit the places I would visit. I’m going to see all the places I wanted to, and that’s that. You never know what kind of adventure you can find outside of your comfort zone.

Have you had a similar situation? When did you decide, enough is enough?

You are awesome!

-Mike

Comments? Questions? Suggestions? Please leave them down below.